What Are Ceramides? How They Make Your Skin Strong and Beautiful

Simply put, ceramides are special fats that build our skin barrier. They are the main component of the top layer of our skin: the

stratum corneum

(

horny layer

).

Our stratum corneum consists of a mix of water and lipids. This mixture binds many small, dead skin cells (corneocytes) together, creating a protective barrier:

our skin barrier

.

Ceramides constitute 60% of the lipids in our stratum corneum. Our human stratum corneum contains at least

nine different types of ceramides

.

In cosmetics, Ceramide 3, listed as Ceramide NP, is most commonly found. This ceramide has the largest quantity of all the ceramides in our skin. Ceramides are naturally present in our skin and are skin-identical. Therefore, they are completely compatible in skincare and also suitable for natural cosmetics.

This list includes all

9 types of ceramides

found in our skin. The letters following the ceramides represent their specific names, which you can also find on the INCI lists of cosmetic products. These names are derived from the unique structure of each ceramide. For example, NP stands for

N-Stearoyl-Phytosphingosine

.

New to skincare products are also modified ceramides. The ingredient

Ceramide BP

, or

isostearoyl phytosphingosine

, represents a new type of ceramide. To fulfill new skincare functions, skin-identical ceramides are modified.

Ceramide BP consists of branched fatty acids primarily found in the vernix caseosa (cheesy varnish) of infants. This unique protective layer shields an infant's skin from dehydration and bacterial infections. We use Ceramide BP in our Hautcreme+ for dry skin.

Our upper skin layers are also known as the epidermis. Its primary function is the

continuous renewal of our skin barrier.

The skin barrier ensures that no pollutants penetrate the skin and that the skin remains well-moisturized. This is the key to healthy and thus beautiful skin. Also, to youthful skin. When the skin is protected from drying out,

fewer wrinkles

form.

Therefore, the lower layers of the epidermis are constantly producing new ceramides, with the body knowing the ideal composition of the various types of ceramides.

By the way, the skin's protective barrier is a biomembrane. These membranes are found throughout our entire body. Every cell is surrounded by a membrane. All membranes in the body are composed of two membrane lipids:

phospholipids

and

sphingolipids

. These substances are also responsible for our body's ability to produce ceramides.

The synthesis of ceramides in the epidermis is very complex. We do not want to get lost in biochemical details but rather note generally: All ceramides are formed from membrane lipids.

These are

phospholipids

and

sphingolipids

. Remember:

sphingolipids

are the special fats that include ceramides. Additionally, there are

sphingosines

: these are amino alcohols that are also a major component of ceramides.

A good skin cream always contains ceramides. However, the best skin cream should also

stimulate

ceramide synthesis

. We will discuss later how a cream can support ceramide synthesis. First, let's focus on the effects of cosmetics containing ceramides in general.

Ceramides are the fundamental building blocks of our skin barrier. Creams that contain ceramides or stimulate ceramide synthesis

enhance the barrier function of the skin

.

Specifically, this means

more moisture and more protection

. Providing ceramides reduces the skin's natural water loss, also known as TEWL (Trans Epidermal Water Loss). At the same time, it prevents exogenous irritants from penetrating the skin. Protection against bacteria, viruses, or fungi is particularly important for damaged skin and skin diseases.

Since ceramides are a natural part of the skin, every type of skin benefits from a ceramide cream. Generally, the more stressed or needy the skin, the greater the effect.

Ceramides are particularly suitable as an anti-aging agent, for dry skin, and for skin diseases such as psoriasis, eczema, and atopic dermatitis.

There are many effective anti-aging ingredients but ceramides play a crucial role due to their foundational benefits for healthy and beautiful skin. Well-hydrated skin looks more radiant and shows fewer wrinkles.

That's why ceramides have become a secret weapon in anti-aging creams. They can be especially effective in eye care because the more moisture the delicate skin around the eyes retains, the

fewer wrinkles

appear.

Dry skin can often be traced back to a compromised barrier function. When too much moisture escapes through the membrane in the upper layers of the skin, it becomes dry. This can be caused by various factors, such as damage from excessive cleansing with harsh detergents or a disruption in the body’s natural ceramide synthesis. In either case, cosmetics containing ceramides and ceramide precursors, like

phospholipids

and

sphingolipids

, are beneficial.

Ceramides also show promise in treating skin diseases. They enhance the skin's ability to shield itself from external irritants. Studies have indeed shown reduced ceramide levels in the skin of individuals with

eczema

,

dermatoses

, and

psoriasis

.

Cosmetics that aid in rebuilding the skin barrier not only prevent skin diseases but can also diminish the severity of outbreaks. Therefore, maintaining a sufficient supply of ceramides is key to healthy skin.

Here you can read more about how ceramides help with eczema.

Interestingly, ceramides are increasingly found in shampoos. This is actually a great idea, especially for dry scalp. Ceramides seem to bond well with the keratin in hair, making hair look healthier and more beautiful.

Effective skincare with ceramides can help in two ways:

Ceramides are easy to spot on an ingredient list. The most commonly used form is simply called c

eramide NP

. Few cosmetics producers choose this path, as ceramides are very complex to manufacture. They are among the most precious raw materials used in cosmetics.

By the way, in our Hautcreme+, we use a mix of 5 ceramides along with additional ceramide precursors.

However, be cautious:

The skin barrier is made up of various ceramides. If a cream contains only one type of ceramide in a high concentration, it could disrupt the ideal mixture. An accumulation of the 'wrong' ceramides has no effect and, in the worst case, could cause damage. It's best to also provide the skin with the necessary precursors so that our body can produce the 'perfect' ceramide mix itself.

To aid the body in producing ceramides, a cream should

contain membrane lipids

. Our favorite ingredient is phosphatidylcholine (PC), which is a major component of every cell membrane in the body. This is why the biochemical effects of this substance are so diverse. It stimulates the synthesis of various ceramides and has long-lasting effects in the skin.

Besides Ceramide 3 (Ceramide NP), Ceramide 1 (EOS) also plays a crucial role in the skin barrier. It is particularly valuable for organizing the different ceramides.

Ceramide 1 can be produced by the skin itself, but this process requires linoleic acid. Linoleic acid cannot be synthesized by the body, which is why our skin cream includes this active ingredient. In the ingredient list, linoleic acid is listed as l

inoleic acid

.

Another effective way to provide the skin with linoleic acid is through phosphatidylcholine (PC). This phospholipid is rich in linoleic acid and can easily transport it into the deeper layers of the skin.

Enzymatically, linoleic acid is produced from PC. This effect is particularly sustainable because a cream with a high PC content creates a depot from which the body can easily draw when needed.

From linoleic acid, a series of other ceramides are produced, such as Ceramide 4 (EOH) and Ceramide 9 (EOP). Incidentally, linoleic acid helps against acne, refines pores, and combats hyperpigmentation.

Sphingosines are an important component of ceramides. They are amino alcohols that, along with fats, are a major part of ceramides. Therefore, sphingosines can support the skin in forming ceramides.

Sphingosines

are often listed as phytosphingosines on ingredient lists, indicating they are of plant origin.

A particularly effective form is called

tetraacetylphytosphingosine

, one of the longest ingredients we know. This form is highly soluble in cosmetics and therefore works particularly well.

We use

tetraacetylphytosphingosine

in our Hautcreme+ because this ingredient promotes the formation of all ceramides, especially Ceramide 1 (EOS), which is responsible for organizing all the ceramides.

As mentioned, PC (phosphatidylcholine) is a particularly prevalent phospholipid with a multitude of functions and effects, including

direct involvement in ceramide synthesis

. When needed, the body converts PC into

sphingomyelin

, from which more ceramides are formed.

But wait, what is

sphingomyelin

? Let's keep it simple.

Sphingomyelin

is both a

sphingolipid

and a

phospholipid

(our two types of membrane lipids), which is why it is also called

sphingophospholipid

. Makes sense, right?

For example, sphingomyelin gives rise to Ceramides 2 and 5, also known as Ceramides NS and AS.

Ceramides protect your skin, so it's essential to protect your ceramides as well. Fats are susceptible to

lipid peroxidation

, which is damage caused by free radicals. These unstable molecules cause significant harm in the body as they search for reaction partners. Antioxidants can 'capture' these free radicals. Therefore, ensure that your cream also contains vitamins and antioxidants.

One of the best-known antioxidants is Vitamin C. Vitamin A (Retinol) and Vitamin E also prevent lipid peroxidation. Potent antioxidants found in nature include resveratrol and astaxanthin, which protect your membranes and thus the ceramides in your skin.

As a fundamental part of the skin barrier, ceramides are essential for healthy skin. Effective cosmetics must, therefore, increase the ceramide concentration in the skin. One way is the direct incorporation of ceramides into a cream. Cosmetics are even more effective when they stimulate the production of ceramides through skin-identical membrane lipids:

phospholipids

and

sphingolipids

.

A particularly effective cream should also contain antioxidants, such as Vitamins C and E, to protect the ceramides from lipid peroxidation.

In our Hautcreme+, we use both a mix of 5 ceramides and a significant portion of 4% membrane lipids. Combined with strong antioxidants, your skin is comprehensively built up and protected.

Sources

Hany Farwana – 

Studie zur Wirkung von Ceramiden 1 und 3 bei irritierter Haut  – 

Studie zu Sphingolipiden in der Haut – 

Studie zur Identifikation verschiedener Ceramide – 

Analyse der Lipide in unserer Hornschicht –