Hyaluronic Acid – How It Really Works

Hyaluronic acid

is naturally present in the body, constituting a vital component of various connective tissues. It stands out for its ability to bind significant amounts of water. One gram of hyaluronic acid can bind up to 6 liters of water!

In a water-bound state, hyaluronic acid forms a gel-like substance with numerous functions in the body. It is a primary component of our joint fluid, acting as a lubricant to keep our joints resilient even under substantial stress.

Allergies or side effects with hyaluronic acid are practically nonexistent. This is because this substance is native to the body and recognized by it. A prime example of its compatibility is hyaluronic acid eye drops, which soothe itchy, red eyes.

Unfortunately, the level of hyaluronic acid in the body diminishes with age. Audible joint cracking signals the departure of hyaluronic acid from the joint fluid.

Most notably, the skin also loses moisture and elasticity due to a decline in hyaluronic acid. This can lead to the formation of wrinkles. Consistent supplementation of the skin with hyaluronic acid over an extended period results in increased plumpness and reduced wrinkles.

Hyaluronic acid comes in various sizes. In the body, hyaluronic acid is typically found as a long-chain compound with high molecular weight. In skincare, hyaluronic acid with a short-chain compound has proven effective. It has a low molecular weight, allowing it to penetrate deeper into the skin.

In broad terms, we can distinguish between two sizes:

high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid

and

low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid

. The general rule is that the smaller the hyaluronic acid chains, the deeper they can penetrate the skin. Therefore, low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid is more effective than high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid.

In the cosmetic ingredient list, known as INCI, both variants are named Sodium Hyaluronate. Hence, it's worthwhile to seek additional information from the manufacturer.

All types of hyaluronic acid are beneficial for firm skin. For us, a combination of all types is the best choice. However, low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid should always make up the majority. Low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid has a better long-term effect, which is more important to us.

In the following paragraph, you will find more information about the effects of different hyaluronic acid sizes.

This type of hyaluronic acid is the largest variant. It consists of molecules with a size of 1,500 kDa and larger and cannot penetrate the skin barrier. However, it forms a film with the keratin of the skin upon evaporation, moisturizing the skin and improving elasticity. Unfortunately, this film is relatively quickly washed off, so there is no real long-term effect. However, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid has anti-inflammatory properties, making it nourishing and soothing.

This hyaluronic acid can penetrate the skin. It consists of molecules with a size of 50 kDa and smaller, ensuring that water is stored in the skin's connective tissue. With the additional moisture, the skin becomes not only plumper and firmer but also visibly reduces wrinkles. When using low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, moisture is stored in the skin sustainably. It has more advantages and, above all, a more sustainable effect.

This is the smallest hyaluronic acid. Extremely short-chain molecules are used in this type, which are even much smaller than in conventional low molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

Oligo hyaluronic acid is brand new on the market. It refers to particularly small hyaluronic acid fragments. It is very high-priced and found only in the most exclusive products.

We use Oligo hyaluronic acid in our Hautgel+, an oil-free skin care formula that provides maximum hydration.

There are many misconceptions about the most effective dosage of hyaluronic acid. Often, the pure hyaluronic acid content is not specified. Many manufacturers deceive by indicating the concentration of a hyaluronic acid-water mixture. This leads them to claim hyaluronic acid concentrations of 10% or more.

The fact is, a good hyaluronic acid serum typically contains 1% pure hyaluronic acid. The majority of this should ideally consist of the smallest molecular sizes.

Higher concentrations of hyaluronic acid often feel less pleasant on the skin. Skincare products tend to be sticky, and they may easily roll off when combined with other products. This phenomenon is particularly noticeable in products with high molecular weight (long-chain) hyaluronic acid.

Hyaluronic acid is one of the few active ingredients whose anti-wrinkle effects have been proven in studies. However, for us, hyaluronic acid is not a miracle cure but rather a notable moisturizer.

It is essential to be aware that moisture loss is just one factor contributing to the aging of our skin and the formation of wrinkles. The impact of oxidative stress and UV radiation is equally significant.

Therefore, we recommend not only moisturizers but also antioxidants such as Vitamin C and Vitamin A. Additionally, a day cream with high UVA protection is advisable.

To prevent wrinkles in the long term, we recommend using antioxidants as well. What are antioxidants, and how do they help the skin? You can find out in this article.

You've probably heard of the two most famous antioxidants: Vitamin A and Vitamin C. Vitamin C assists our body in forming a healthy collagen structure. Collagen is the foundation for wrinkle-free skin, even into old age. Additionally, Vitamin A stimulates skin renewal.

Ensuring a supply of various antioxidants is crucial in the fight against premature skin aging. We've already mentioned the classics, but there are many other antioxidants that can keep your skin healthy and youthful. The best anti-aging cream combines several of these helpers.

As mentioned earlier, hyaluronic acid is highly suitable for eye care. However, the thin skin around the eyes requires additional active ingredients to ensure that moisture is retained in the skin over the long term. An eye cream should be formulated with a balanced combination of ingredients.

In addition to hyaluronic acid, it is recommended to use barrier-strengthening agents. Other essential components include additional moisturizers like glycerin and lipid-containing substances such as shea butter and squalane. Squalane helps retain moisture in the skin, and it is non-irritating, making it suitable for use around the eyes.

Yes, hyaluronic acid does help as a moisturizer against dry skin. However, it's important to note that it's not a cure-all. Our skin's functionality is somewhat complex, and for moisture to be retained in the skin, two things are needed:

Many of the hyaluronic acid fillers, serums, and creams on the market provide excellent short-term results. However, if the skin barrier is weak, the effectiveness diminishes once the application is discontinued.

In this article, you'll discover what really helps with dry skin.

Essential for the long-term hydration of the skin is strengthening the barrier layer. Only this barrier prevents excessive moisture loss. Even the best hyaluronic acid product is only moderately effective with a weak skin barrier.

For a lasting effect, a cream should also strengthen the skin barrier. That's why our Hautcreme+ is based on a cream structure that works with the skin's own ingredients:

phosphatidylcholine

and

ceramides

.

Phosphatidylcholine naturally enhances the beauty of the skin by supporting skin renewal and strengthening the skin barrier. Ceramides constitute the main component of the fats in the upper skin layer, reinforcing the skin barrier and ensuring more moisture.

Learn more about how to strengthen your skin barrier here.

The short answer is: Yes. There are other water-binding agents that contribute to more moisture in our skin.

Our skin utilizes a natural system for moisturizing: the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). The NMF is a combination of various moisturizers.

Several natural moisturizers support our NMF, including

urea

,

lactic acid

,

glycerin

,

pentylene glycol

, and, of course,

hyaluronic acid

. Therefore, the best moisture boost is achieved by using multiple moisturizers.

Yes, there is hyaluronic acid available in natural cosmetic quality. Hyaluron can also be vegan and cruelty-free. However, not every manufacturer uses vegan hyaluronic acid without animal-derived components. If in doubt, you should inquire with your manufacturer.

All products from Beyer & Söhne are vegan and cruelty-free. Additionally, our products are PETA certified.

We generally advocate for the path through cosmetics. With the right hyaluronic acid, you can achieve remarkable results in skincare – without any side effects.

However, there is also the option of injecting hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid injections are administered into the skin to add volume to specific facial areas, plump up areas with volume loss, and reduce the depth of wrinkles.

Typically, nasolabial folds are filled in. These are the folds that run from the nose under the cheeks to the chin. But hyaluronic acid injections can also be used to make lips appear more voluminous. Results can be visible approximately two weeks after treatment. The effects on treated areas can last 1-2 years, depending on the product.

Please note:

 Hyaluronic acid injections should only be performed by specially trained professionals, such as dermatologists or surgeons. This ensures the avoidance of injuries, infections, and undesirable results. Although these hyaluronic acid treatments usually proceed without side effects, thorough pre-treatment discussions should rule out allergies and specific conditions.

Due to its moisture-binding properties, hyaluronic acid (correctly referred to as "hyaluronan") is a versatile compound indispensable in medicine and pharmacy. We've previously discussed its use in dermal fillers, but hyaluronic acid goes beyond that. It serves as an essential component in numerous medications, acting both as an auxiliary tool and an active ingredient.

Hyaluronic acid is found in eye drops and nasal sprays, where it moisturizes the eyes or mucous membranes and provides soothing effects. Interestingly, the vitreous humor in our eyes consists mainly of water and hyaluronic acid.

In orthopedics, hyaluronic acid is used because it is a natural component of joints and cartilage. Injections of hyaluronic acid improve joint lubrication. In this way, osteoarthritis symptoms can be alleviated.

As for hyaluronic acid supplements, there is currently no scientific evidence that ingesting hyaluronic acid contributes to skin rejuvenation or has a positive effect on joints.

Substances like sodium hyaluronate, whether in powder form or capsules, lack proven efficacy. The reason lies in the fact that when ingested, hyaluronic acid can only reach the skin to a minimal extent. This holds true for most beauty vitamins.

Regardless of whether you take hyaluronic acid capsules or liquid supplements, the effects are primarily psychological. Therefore, we recommend applying hyaluronic acid through high-quality skincare for optimal results.

Hyaluronic acid naturally occurs in the body and has virtually no side effects. It binds large amounts of water, regulating the skin's moisture content. When it comes to which hyaluronic acid works best, the answer is clear: the smaller, the better!

While high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid remains on the skin, low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid can penetrate deeper into the skin and provide long-term effects. To achieve all the positive effects, it is advisable to combine both sizes.

Moisture is just one factor in skin aging. Additionally, we recommend a combination of various antioxidants and high UV protection.

As hyaluronic acid is a moisturizer, it is crucial to complement it with the building of the skin barrier. Otherwise, moisture could quickly evaporate, and fine lines and wrinkles might reappear.

Sources

Pubmed  – 

Pubmed –